The survival of approximately forty million individuals hinges on the fish harvested from Lake Victoria, the largest tropical lake globally and the second largest freshwater lake, bordered by Kenya, Tanzania, and Uganda. Unfortunately, this once-thriving ecosystem is now under severe threat due to pollution, invasive weeds, overfishing, climate change, and an alarming rise in fish farming operations.

Residing in Uganda just 15 kilometers from Lake Victoria's northern shore, I used to frequent its banks during the sweltering days of January and July. A decade ago, local fishermen relied on traditional methods, using canoes and nets to catch tilapia, silver fish, catfish, and the elusive lung fish, integral to the region's culinary traditions.

Historically, fishing on the lake was divided into two categories: small-scale fishermen operating near the shore with canoes and larger commercial fishers venturing further out with motorboats. Both practices were sustainable, as fishers adhered to natural breeding cycles, preventing overexploitation. I fondly recall the scent of brackish water and the joy of swimming at Kibanga Landing Site while listening to tales from the past. Watching fishermen cast their nets at sunset was a cherished experience that fostered a connection with nature.

However, this picturesque scene has been overshadowed by an unsettling sight: rows of floating cages supported by blue drums, many equipped with surveillance cameras to deter trespassers. Armed guards now patrol areas that were once accessible to local fishermen, restricting their access to traditional fishing grounds.

I often conversed with local fishers, who would prepare us a traditional dish called akabeero, made from tilapia and matooke (banana). We enjoyed this meal before embarking on boat rides to observe their fishing techniques.

Today, the artisanal fishing sector, crucial for the food security of nearby communities, faces existential threats from large corporations that exploit this vital resource for profit. The rampant commercialization of Lake Victoria has persisted for over fifty years, disregarding the delicate ecological balance. Local fishing communities bear witness to the consequences of the "African perch disaster," which began in the 1960s when the Nile perch (Lates nicotilus) was introduced to enhance fishing output. This predator has decimated the populations of smaller fish, leading to a tenfold increase in annual fish catches to one million tons over the past five decades.

The explosion of Nile perch in the 1980s, which coincided with a significant economic upturn for the fishery, resulted in a drastic decline in the lake's biodiversity. By the early 1990s, the fishery was dominated by just three species: the invasive Nile perch, the Nile tilapia (Oreochromis niloticus), and the smaller R. argentea. While the lucrative Nile perch trade has enriched some, it has also exacerbated economic disparities and made the fish unaffordable for local consumers, with most being exported to international markets. The resulting food miles from this export create an unsustainable burden.

Traditional fishing, once a cornerstone of local food security, has transformed into an industrial export operation, benefiting foreign investors while offering little to local communities. The decline of artisanal fishing has led to the loss of centuries-old cultural practices and skills, along with the artisans who crafted and repaired fishing gear.

Ironically, even the Nile perch, now a victim of overexploitation and pollution, is starting to dwindle in numbers.

Recently, the rapid expansion of fish farming has emerged as a supposed solution to the increasing demand for fish, but it poses a significant risk to Lake Victoria’s ecosystem. The ease of farming tilapia, which can thrive on a varied diet, has attracted numerous enterprises, including Nairobi's Victory Farms, co-founded by a British entrepreneur. A report by the Lattice Aquaculture Trust (LAT) for the FAO identified 58 commercial fish farming operators across Uganda, Kenya, and Tanzania.

In 2022, satellite imagery revealed 8,024 fish cages, with the majority located in Kenya (6,169), followed by Uganda (1,809) and Tanzania (46). The proliferation of these cages has replaced the idyllic scene of fishermen casting nets with an industrial landscape, further isolating local fishermen from their ancestral waters.

Concerns about the environmental and social ramifications of large-scale fish farming are escalating globally. The rapid growth and consolidation of the aquaculture sector have raised critical issues regarding ecosystem degradation, pressure on wild fish populations, and human rights abuses.

Due to confined spaces, caged fish are prone to injuries, diseases, and parasites, leading farmers to use antibiotics and pesticides that pollute surrounding waters. The resulting wastewater, rich in food remnants, antibiotics, and waste, creates dead zones near farming sites, decimating local ecosystems. Furthermore, remaining small-scale fishers in Uganda face barriers to accessing the lake, as navigating around the cages has become increasingly difficult.

The unprecedented growth of fish farming in Lake Victoria can be traced back to recent national legislation changes. The European Union (EU) and the East African Community (EAC) have initiated the "EU-EAC True Fish Farming Story in Lake Victoria Basin (TRUE-FISH or ETF)" project, with a staggering budget of 10.15 million euros aimed at promoting sustainable growth in the sector. However, this funding may inadvertently contribute to further destruction of Lake Victoria and exacerbate the plight of impoverished local communities.

It is crucial for us to raise awareness and advocate for the preservation of our natural environments, as the world's lakes, like its oceans, are collective resources that belong to everyone. Protecting and nurturing these shared assets for future generations is a vital responsibility we must embrace, or we risk losing everything.

This article is authored by Edward Mukiibi, President of Slow Food. The opinions expressed herein are solely those of Mr. Mukiibi. Born in 1986, he resides in Uganda, where he operates an agroecological farm with his family. An agronomist and educator in food and agriculture, he has played a significant role in the Slow Food movement since 2012, serving as its president since July 2022.

Sources: Robert M. Pringle, The Origins of the Nile Perch in Lake Victoria https://academic.oup.com/bioscience/article/55/9/780/286121 Hubert Super, Darwin’s Nightmare https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Darwin%27s_Nightmare Made in China https://qingdaosikeli.en.made-in-china.com/product/FMOJijGdwBro/China-Kenya-Farmers-Lake-Victoria-Culture-Fish-Cage.html INSIDE Victory Farm over 500 tilapia cages in Lake Victoria, the largest in East Africa https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WfipVR2jRPk Final Report. ‘Sectoral Training Needs Assessment for Aquaculture Business Operators and Employees at the Lake Victoria Basin (Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda)’ https://lvfo.org/sites/default/files/field/EU%20Truefish%20Census%20and%20TNA%20Final%20report-Updated%281%29_0.pdf ‘Chinese imports ‘driving fishermen to despair’’ https://www.bbc.com/news/business-47611076 ‘Threats to the oceans’ https://www.slowfood.com/insights/threats-to-the-oceans