The Tradition of Cookware

Before the rise of ceramic and non-stick options, cookware was known for its durability. Is it time to revisit those sturdy roots?

Reflecting on my childhood, I remember being captivated by my great-grandmother's eclectic assortment of cookware. Hefty pans and uneven pots of various sizes, colors, and materials adorned her kitchen walls, ready to be utilized on the old wood-fired cast-iron stove by the window.

My great-grandmother, a petite woman with a warm smile, endured two world wars and countless struggles throughout her life. Her unwavering love for her family was evident, and cooking was one of her cherished expressions of that love. She imparted a legacy of emotional richness rather than material wealth, particularly her passion for food.

Though many years have passed since she left us, her spirit occasionally feels present, guiding me through my culinary endeavors with her gentle wisdom.

She cherished the joy of witnessing her great-grandchildren, and even though we were too young to fully grasp it, we sensed her presence was a true blessing.

Years have gone by, and I now have my own family and kitchen. As a food writer, cookware reviewer, and aspiring chef, I've been fortunate to transform my culinary passion into a career.

While I don't use a cast-iron stove, the heirloom skillets from my great-grandmother's era seem to have vanished into the ether of my father's storage. However, the lighter pots from that time remain, still producing fries with the same crispness as in her day.

This isn't merely nostalgia; it highlights a significant change in our perception and utilization of cookware, a shift that began in the 1950s and persists today.

My great-grandmother relied on the same pots and pans her entire life, many of which were passed down through the generations. Have we forgotten that quality cookware is meant to endure for decades?

In the past, people typically purchased cookware once. You'd buy a pan and a few pots, using them until they became warped beyond repair, often repurposing them as planters.

So, what happened to that approach?

The Era of Disposable Cookware

Today's non-stick frying pans average a lifespan of only 2 to 3 years—perhaps 4 to 5 if you’re fortunate. Eventually, the non-stick coating—usually made of PTFE—begins to deteriorate, releasing chemicals into your food that are difficult for the body to eliminate. Convenience, it seems, comes at a price.

Ceramic pans are similarly flawed. Their metal bodies are coated with a mixture of sand and other chemicals, which can leach into your food when heated. These coatings are prone to scratching, losing their effectiveness over time, requiring you to replace the pan as it becomes sticky.

Essentially, non-stick and ceramic cookware are merely metal pans with chemical coatings that enhance their surface. Ironically, these coatings contribute to higher costs while limiting the lifespan to just a few years. A well-maintained traditional pan can last a lifetime.

I refer to this as disposable cookware, which benefits manufacturers more than consumers, who find themselves in a cycle of constant repurchase.

Thanks, cookware brands, but no thanks. While I’m sure this boosts your profits, not everything should be designed for repeat purchases.

My Great-Grandmother’s Wisdom

So, what are the alternatives? We should revisit my great-grandmother's kitchen.

Non-stick and ceramic cookware were innovations of the 1950s and 1990s, respectively. Manufacturers discovered that PFOA, a substance used during WWII, could create a non-stick surface. This led to widespread adoption of non-stick coatings, marketed as superior options compared to traditional cookware.

However, once the harmful effects of PFOA became known, it was replaced with polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) and other coatings, including ceramic varieties.

Prior to the ceramic cookware era, people like my great-grandmother cooked with bare metal and real ceramic enamel.

Exploring Bare-Metal Cookware

Bare-metal cookware can be made from aluminum, cast iron, carbon steel, and stainless steel.

Aluminum pots were once favored for their excellent heat conduction, but concerns over health risks from acidic foods reacting with aluminum led to their decline in popularity. Today, most non-stick and ceramic cookware is aluminum-based, yet finding bare aluminum cookware is increasingly rare.

This leaves cast iron, carbon steel, and stainless steel as viable options.

Cast iron and carbon steel skillets are ideal for home cooking due to their superb heat retention. They distribute heat evenly, ensuring food cooks properly without hot spots.

However, both materials are reactive and prone to rusting, requiring a seasoning process where a thin layer of oil is baked onto the surface before use. This not only protects the metal but also provides a natural non-stick surface. Seasoning can wear off in the dishwasher or with acidic foods, necessitating careful hand washing.

Conversely, stainless steel pans are staples in both home and commercial kitchens. Unlike cast iron and carbon steel, they do not require seasoning. Just wash them, dry them, and they are ready for cooking. They are also dishwasher-safe and suitable for acidic foods due to their non-reactive properties.

However, stainless steel can be sticky, making it challenging to cook low-fat, high-protein foods without sticking. Using a combination of oil and butter can help create a better cooking surface.

The stickiness may deter some cooks from using stainless steel; thus, I recommend having both seasoned cast iron or carbon steel and stainless steel cookware on hand.

Enameled Cookware

Aside from stainless steel, other metals used for cooking are reactive. This means they can leach dietary iron into food if used with acidic liquids.

While some may argue this is beneficial—since our bodies need iron—prolonged contact with acidic foods can strip the seasoning off pans and pots, making them susceptible to corrosion and imparting a metallic taste to dishes.

To address this, a German craftsman developed a method in the 1850s, liquefying glass and dipping cast iron pots into it. After baking, the result was pots coated in vitreous enamel.

Today, we call these enameled Dutch ovens or enameled French cocottes. They serve as a great alternative to ceramic and non-stick cookware, offering a thick layer of colored glass fused onto a metal body.

While enameled cookware tends to be more expensive than bare-metal options, they don't react with acidic foods and are often dishwasher-safe. The vitreous enamel is nearly non-stick, requiring just a drizzle of oil to prevent sticking.

Cookware brands often try to convince us we need a multitude of pots for everyday cooking, but the reality is different. A good enameled Dutch oven can handle most cooking tasks, from braises to soups, stews, and even baking. Pair it with the essential pans mentioned earlier, and you’re well-equipped for nearly all culinary needs.

Returning to Basics

If you're weary of overspending on cookware that needs constant replacement, it may be time to return to the basics and invest in the durable pots and pans that our forebearers relied upon.

Typically priced between $25 and $30 each, these pieces are virtually indestructible and can last a lifetime. In contrast, a $100 cookware set might need replacing every 2 to 3 years, leading to significant long-term costs.

You may also be surprised at how few pieces you actually need. A solid kitchen should include a cast iron skillet for various meats and cornbread, a nimble carbon steel pan for vegetables, and a stainless steel saucepan for sauces, as it doesn’t react with acidic ingredients.

Bare-metal pans and enameled pots are safer, more affordable, and often superior to the "convenient" non-stick and ceramic alternatives pushed by cookware companies. Ultimately, they are tools you purchase once and use for life. It’s time to secure these timeless pieces before they fade into history.

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